New Orleans Travel Guide

"There's a wait out the door for a reason" at this French Quarter "old faithful" (with less historic outposts in the 'burbs) whose "phenomenal" oysters ("raw, char-grilled and fried") as well as other "inexpensive", "off-the-boat" seafood is the stuff "you write about in postcards"; tourists "sit elbow-to-elbow with natives" in the "merry", "faux-divey" digs, while those in-the-know head to the bar's "marble counter" for a close-up of the shuckers' "floor show."

This Vieux Carré "shrine" to "golden-age" Creole-French cooking "still delivers" the "essence of old New Orleans" in its "rich" signature dishes and desserts like the baked Alaska ("order in advance"); the "beautiful", "antiques-filled rooms" are overseen by a "black-tie-attired" "lifelong staff" that "would bring you the Eiffel Tower if you asked", but to get the full experience "make sure you have the name of a waiter" and "follow his advice"; N.B. closed Tuesday–Wednesday, brunch-only on Sundays.

An "iconic, well-weathered establishment", this "gorgeous grande dame" featuring a "crisp" "collection of intimate dining areas and open rooms" provides a "glorious" atmosphere for supping on "true Creole cuisine", such as "amazing" shrimp Arnaud, and savoring a "fantastic" Sunday jazz brunch; since the staff provides "spectacular" service too (including "proper" tableside preparations), most feel the "top-heavy" bill is justified; P.S. "don't miss the Mardi Gras display upstairs."

"Exceptionally creative" celebrity chef/co-owner John Besh "impresses" guests with "attention to detail that's something to behold" at his CBD flagship, crafting an "exciting and satisfying" menu of Continental–New French cuisine that's "filled with fresh, local surprises"; both the "lovely" interior of "exposed brick and shimmering chandeliers" and "terrific" service by a "well-versed" staff complete the "sublime" meal, so "if you can stomach the prices", you'll make your stomach very "happy."

"Culinary genius" Susan Spicer creates "imaginative", "delectable" New American dishes with "local flavor", which are delivered by her "crackerjack" staff at this "shining star" in a Creole cottage "tucked away from the craziness of the French Quarter"; its "picturesque" patio and "multiple, intimate" dining areas ("request the first floor") are equally "attractive", adding up to a "slice of heaven" that's "well worth the price"; P.S. "go for lunch" – it's a "bargain" and the "duck PB&J will make you glad you're an adult now."

"Breakfast is truly an event" with "a touch of class and a touch of sass" at this "handsomely priced" French Quarter Creole – an "indispensable pillar" of New Orleans cuisine – that's "great for dinner too", but "don't check your cholesterol level for weeks after eating here"; the staff is "motivated to please" and the dining rooms are "ritzy", though some long for the days before tourists in "shorts and fanny packs" outnumbered the "gents wearing jackets."

"Believe everything you've heard" about chef/co-owner Frank Brigtsen's "marvelous", "innovative" Contemporary Louisiana "comfort food with flair" presented at a "perfect pace" by a "delightful", "down-to-earth" staff (helmed by wife and manager Marna Brigtsen) at this Riverbend "winner", rated No. 1 in New Orleans for Food and Service; many "love the atmosphere" in a "quaint" cottage too (though critics call it "cramped"), finding the whole experience "New Orleans through and through" and a "great value" to boot.

"You have to be baptized with powdered sugar falling off the beignets to truly have visited NOLA" assert lovers of this 24/7 "landmark" purveyor of "amazing" "crispy puffs of fried dough" paired with chicory coffee that'll "put hair on your chest"; its "open-air" setting across from Jackson Square allows for "wonderful" people-watching, so despite the "surly waiters" and the "stickiest tables in the city", it's a "must for tourists, a tradition for locals and a rendezvous for revelers" – "shame on you if you miss it."

"You can get lost finding" this "clubby" Uptown "institution" that's "among the last of the haute Creole houses", where "traditional waiters" serve "outstanding" dishes like oysters with Brie and smoked soft-shell crab at upscale but "fair" prices; boasting a "high-octane atmosphere", it plays host to plenty of "back-slapping" among the "old-guard" crowd and is still the "place where you're most likely to see someone in seersucker."

The daily jazz buffet brunch, abundant with "seafood and salads", is festively "filled with culinary sins" covering the "classic Big Easy style" at this vintage French Quarter Creole whose "picturesque" courtyard continues to draw "loads" of "out-of-towners"; foes consider it "overpriced" "factory food", however, and warn that "locals will mock you for falling for the hype."

Surveyors rate this "wonderful", "exotic" aquarium on the Mississippi River edge of the French Quarter the city's Most Popular attraction for its "world-class exhibits" that some say are "second only to Monterey, CA"; "fantastic fins", "entertaining eels", an "amazing" white alligator and a "caring staff" make a visit here "a blast for kids and grown-ups alike."

"Dripping with Spanish moss and Southern charm", "ancient" oaks "still standing after Katrina" create a "green oasis" in this "jewel of Uptown New Orleans" with its "well-kept" "bike and walking paths" and "fabulous golf course"; "adjacent to the zoo", it's a "serene", "wonderful" place to "feed the ducks", "ride bikes", play tennis or just "waste away a day" "with a good book."

"Da monkeys, dey all aks fo' you" at this "outstanding" zoo, a "modern marvel" Uptown that's deemed a "great family attraction" with a "dedicated staff" and "user-friendly layout"; for a real New Orleans experience, catch some "local flavor" at the "not-to-be-missed" swamp exhibit that's "so authentic they post nutria recipes."

"Kitschy yet cool", this French Quarter "shopper's paradise" makes a "great stroll full of history" with an "eclectic gumbo" of "wonderful spices", T-shirts, "irresistible mementos" and "beads, beads, beads"; though the "charmingly displayed junk" can be "hit-or-miss", fans come to "wander, people-watch" and "haggle with vendors" for a "unique experience" that's "touristy, but in a good way"; its post-Katrina renovation has brought some crisp new shopping areas, plus a farmer's market is set to open soon.

"Hundreds of years of history" unfold throughout this "picturesque" park and "heart of the city", named for hometown hero Andrew Jackson (depicted in the central equestrian sculpture) and bordered by the Mississippi River and St. Louis Cathedral; in addition to its "amazing architecture" and some of the "best street theater" in town ("the starving artists, fortune tellers, performers are sprinkling back"), it makes a "lovely place for people-watching" to the rhythm of "horses pulling carriages" and "sweet jazz played on the corner."

"Moving, inspiring and humbling", this "world-class" Warehouse District "must-see" (founded by historian Stephen Ambrose as the National D-Day Museum, and currently in the middle of an expansion) presents an "outstanding" collection that spans "everything from rationing to V-E Day", "diary entries to uniforms", and "doesn't pull any punches" in conveying the "terror and trauma of war"; rated No. 1 for Appeal among Attractions, it features exhibits covering the "European and Pacific theaters" as well as the domestic front, and engaging docents ("a highlight") who "fascinate even the non–history buff", leaving visitors with a "great appreciation for the men and women who served."

It was "hit tremendously hard by Katrina" and "a lot of work" still needs to be done, but this 1,300-acre Mid-City "treasure", one of the largest urban parks in the country, is "slowly being restored" by "scores of volunteers"; home to the New Orleans Museum of Art, the Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden, Botanical Garden and Storyland amusement park (crafted by Mardi Gras float designers), it's "still a great place to walk, jog or bike" and to visit during December's light-festooned Celebration in the Oaks.

"One of the city's greatest assets", this "beautiful beaux arts building" and its "very fine collection" fortunately remain "intact" despite Katrina's impact on surrounding City Park; its "awesome glass display", "extensive" European and American paintings and pre-Columbian pieces "will keep you riveted for hours", but be sure to leave time for the "spectacular" sculpture garden, perhaps "the number one way to introduce young people to art while giving them room to run around"; N.B. free to Louisiana residents.

Visiting one of the South's oldest cemeteries, whose dead are buried above ground inside "beautiful old statuary", is a "one-of-a-kind experience found nowhere else in the USA"; its "decadent decay" is "disturbing", "ghostly" and "poetic" (see the grave of "voodoo queen" Marie Laveau), but experienced explorers offer just one caution: this "city of the dead" is in a "sketchy neighborhood" bordering the French Quarter, so visitors should take the $12 guided tour (Sundays at 10 AM) instead of going alone.

"One of the coolest spots in town (literally)", this "lovely" "linear" "green space on the banks of the Mississippi River" is a fine place to "get a real look at Ol' Man River" and "watch the ships go by"; it's nothing fancy, but suited to simple French Quarter pleasures like "munching on a po' boy" and savoring "the only place with a breeze in the city."

"Forget about class and join the party" "caterwauling" "cheesy country tunes and classic rock" at this "raucous" Bourbon Street karaoke bar where nearly every night "wasted tourists", "a dozen brides-to-be" and even locals indulging in a "guilty pleasure" get whipped up into a singing and dancing "frenzy"; since it's usually "jammed", some critics caw the "service is Darwinian: only the strong imbibe."

"Debs" and "dates" "drink up the Southern heritage" along with plenty of "Pimm's Cups" at this "must-see" lounge inside a "grand old hotel" with a "large, tree-shaded porch facing St. Charles Avenue"; boasting "awesome ambiance", bartenders with "character" and "delicious" live music, it's a true "treasure in the heart of Uptown."

The "formula works anywhere" admit fans of this French Quarter chain link whose "mind-blowing entertainment" makes it "the spot to see nationally known bands in New Orleans", even if you need to "stand for the entire concert"; while critics say it's "overpriced", "theme-parky" and the "layers of security are ridiculous", most agree that the "acoustics are fantastic" and there's "not a bad view in the place", plus the revived "great gospel brunch" is a Sunday highlight.

This "epic" registered historic landmark in the French Quarter "would be a museum with a shop selling postcards and snowglobes" anywhere else, but in New Orleans it remains a "dark", "sly" and "magical" candlelit bar with "lots of character" at the "quietest location on Bourbon Street"; visitors and natives alike sip "dangerous Voodoo Daiquiris" poured by "friendly, efficient" bartenders, and say it's "a stitch" to "sit around the piano" in back and "sing along."

"Dance and sweat to some funky, funky music", like the "world-renowned" Rebirth Brass Band on Tuesdays, at this "monstrously fun" "must-visit venue" that rolls "late" into the night with a crowd of Carrollton "college kids" and an "interesting group of regulars" who know not to "expect a 10 PM show to start on time"; with a "pressed-tin ceiling" and a "fantastic little garden of overgrown palms", it's not "swanky" by any stretch, but it's a "real" "classic."

"Red-and-green shoes with numbers on them" are "coming back into style" at this "one-of-a-kind" Mid-City "music and dance venue inside a vintage bowling alley" that's "a total hoot"; the "cool music" ranges from rock to zydeco, the "drinks don't drain your wallet" and owner John Blancher is the "quintessential host" who sometimes "takes the stage for Tom Jones and Elvis imitations."

This "well-oiled fun machine" in the French Quarter "never changes", and "yeah, it's a tourist trap, but it's also a locals trap" voted the city's Most Popular nightspot; you can sing along to the "dueling" piano players who "honor all requests", relax on the "beee-yootiful" courtyard with a "fire-breathing fountain" and get a souvenir from "roving photographers", but "watch out for the surprisingly potent trademark Hurricanes – they really pack a punch!"

"If you can't get in, press your nose against the glass" to "get your fill of blissful" "traditional jazz" by "talented" musicians at this "must-see" French Quarter "bastion of New Orleans heritage", voted No. 1 for Appeal in nightlife; it has an "unmistakable effervescence and energy", but expect "long lines, no drinks" (it's all-ages) and a room "so intimate that you'll want to make sure you applied your deodorant"; N.B. all shows are $10.

Revelers "rejoice in hearing" both the "up-and-coming and internationally known stars" of the "modern jazz" world, like Charmaine Neville and members of the Marsalis family, at this "dark, romantic" Marigny club with a "focus on the music"; it's "snug" indeed with tables right "on top of each other", but that also means you get to "sit about 10 feet from the performers"; P.S. you can "grab a burger before the band" in the adjoining dining room.

The "holy grail" of New Orleans funk, this Uptown "granddaddy of the city's music clubs" with a "rich history" also "hosts everything from hip-hop to the blues", along with a Sunday evening "fais do-do" when "all the Cajuns come with their dancing shoes"; the space "feels somewhat barn-ish" and it "might take awhile to get a drink", but it remains a "marvelous venue" whose devotees declare "don't miss this unique place."