San Francisco Travel Guide

"Like the Italian autostrada it's named for", this revved-up Marina enoteca is a "guaranteed traffic jam" "loaded with impossibly good-looking" ragazzi who "shout to be heard" over the "explosively noisy" bar scene; "foodies" motor over to the "chef's bar to watch the pizzaioli perform their magic", slinging "blistered thin-crust" pies, "sublime" salumi and other Neapolitan specialties, matched by a "daunting" but "dazzling" wine list that's "priced right"; N.B. a post-Survey chef change is not reflected in the Food score.

"When you long" for that "European-style" "quiet elegance" "that doesn't exist anymore", this "haute Italian" "tucked away" in a remodeled church in Polk Gulch "has no peer"; overseeing "outstanding" service, the "most gracious maitre d'" "carefully selects" and "decants" vino to pair with the "exceptional", "luxurious" prix fixe menus, so while a few critics contend it's a bit "too stiff" and you may have to "borrow from your children to pay for it", most find it's just "the way you want it to be when you're out with your honey"; N.B. jacket suggested.

"Stellar" New American dishes whose "clean", "intense" "East and West flavors" "explode on the tongue" attract "big foodies" and other "elite" eaters to this "sublime" SoMa sib of Hiro Sone and Lissa Doumani's Terra in St. Helena; providing a "gorgeous" backdrop, the "ultrachic" dining room and bar in the St. Regis is complemented by service in the "courtly tradition", so even those who aren't dining on a "corporate account" affirm that "every dollar is earned."

The "brick-oven char" and "hot oil dripping down your forearm" have the "same effect on NY transplants as Proust's madeleines" at this Bay Area "family pizzeria" chain that some call the "best on the Left Coast"; still, while California-fied options like "soy cheese" and "gluten-free crust" (at some locations) are a "bonus" for "allergy-prone" patrons, others gripe it's "getting very spendy" for a "large pie I can finish myself."

The "Le Bernardin of the Left Coast", this "five-star" Cal-French seafooder "still dazzles" Downtown's "glam" guests and "high rollers (a dwindling breed temporarily)" who "swim in" "after the market closes" for "masterful" meals served by a "splendid" staff; indeed, the "tasting menu with wine pairings" is as "extravagant" as the "over-the-top floral arrangements and huge mirrors", though "loud investment bankers" preclude any "whispers of romance"; N.B. the post-Survey departure of chef Laurent Manrique is not reflected in the Food score.

"Sam Spade would feel right at home" at this "sultry" Downtown supper club with a "Prohibition"-style "back-alley" entrance, "gorgeous" "deco interior" and "fine jazz" every night; it's a "throwback" to the days of "waiters in white tuxes", "big ol' martinis" and diners "dressed to the nines", but most feel the "delicious" "decadent" American-French menu has "kept up with the times"; N.B. lunch served Fridays only (Monday–Friday in December until Christmas).

Sizzle-seekers say "skip Chinatown" and chow down on "innovative" Pan-Asian plates full of "explosive flavors" amid a "sultry" "Shanghai" beer-hall atmosphere at this Cow Hollow "scene", replete with "frilly drinks"; "service varies depending on the night", but "from the jumping bar to the warming fire in the back" to the inviting sidewalk tables, it's a "crowd-watching paradise."

A "San Francisco icon" that only "improves with age" (like its vaunted "wine vault"), chef/co-owner Nancy Oakes' "posh" "power-lunch" and "big-night-out" belle epoque brasserie facing the Embarcadero still "crams" 'em in and leaves 'em "smiling" with a trifecta of "outstanding" "French-inspired" New American food, "enchanting" Bay views and a staff that "treats you like royalty without the attitude"; it takes a lot of cash and patience to "get past" its "revolving doors", but those who've succeeded swoon "the memory still lingers."

"Even though it's changed hands", this "expensive" hotel "hideaway" near Union Square is still a bastion of "civilized dining" where the "well-prepared" Cal-Med cuisine (with Indian accents) is presented by a "pampering" staff; it's "one of the few" places to wear "your fancy duds" and "enjoy your own conversation and not the next table's", so while there's "nothing radical about the menu" or the "staid" ambiance, "that's exactly how" the "discerning clientele" likes it.

Amis adore the "personal service" that really "does deserve an exclamation mark", making the "outstanding" country French fare "taste even better" at this Inner Richmond bistro that relocated post-Survey to owners Philippe and Ellen Gardelle's spiffier former Clémentine space; prix fixe "deals" and early-bird "steals" (Sunday–Thursday) are another plus.

"Keep your fingers crossed" for the Giants "to hit a homer" into the Bay at this "magical" SoMa ballpark with a "captivating" waterfront location and "creative" eats (sushi, fish tacos, "world-famous garlic fries" and "Ghirardelli ice-cream sundaes") that make the national pastime "even more fun"; tickets are "pricey and sometimes hard to get", but "there's not a bad seat in the house" and you can "take a tour" even if you're not attending a game.

There's no escaping that "it's super touristy" – and it's a "chilly", "windy" ferry ride to get there – but this "notorious prison" "where infamous criminals like Al Capone were held" "enthralls" history buffs as well as those aching for a little "solitary confinement"; the "creepy" but "fascinating" audio tour, "complete with bars clanging and prisoners yelling", helps you "imagine being stuck in these cold, gray surroundings with the view of beautiful SF beyond arm's length"; P.S. insiders know to "book online in advance."

This "funky", "amazing" science museum "turns adults into kids" with hundreds of "hands-on activities" that "deftly illustrate" the concepts behind "sound, light, biology, physics" and other subjects that "eluded you in high school"; so bring your "sense of fun" and schedule "at least half a day" – that way, you can indulge your "inner geek" and also "take a walk around" the picturesque Palace of Fine Arts; N.B. free on the first Wednesday of each month.

What was once a working waterfront is now "SF's best-known tourist trap", with "overpriced seafood restaurants" and "tacky souvenir shops" that "no self-respecting San Franciscan would be caught dead in"; still, it's "nice for a stroll", offering "street performers", "great Golden Gate views" and "barking sea lions on Pier 39" – all to be enjoyed while devouring a "yummy sourdough bowl of chowder" and a "delicious" Ghirardelli Square ice-cream sundae; N.B. it's also the departure spot for bay cruises and the boat to Alcatraz Island.

Arguably "the most famous bridge in the world", this "iconic" "engineering marvel" is a "must-see" during "any trip to San Francisco"; you can't miss it from the city's many vantage points, but "brave the winds" and "walk or bike across" for "goosebump"-inducing views ("when the fog's not obscuring them") and a visit to "quaint Sausalito" across the Bay; acrophobes "can drive it" and "snap the mandatory photo" from parking lots at either end.

"You could spend days" at this "mammoth" park (stretching 1,000 acres "from the Haight to the Pacific") that's chock-full of activities: "visit the buffalo" paddock, "take a boat trip on Stow Lake", "play bocce ball", hit a round at the public golf course, catch a glimpse of the two turn-of-the-century windmills or admire blooms "more exotic than the dandelions in your backyard" at the Conservatory of Flowers and the San Francisco Botanical Garden; P.S. given its vast size, don't forget to "enter with a good map."

"Back and better than ever" after an "incredible makeover", this "beauty" of a muni "in the middle of San Francisco" is a "sweet, old-school, tree-lined track" that's "steeped in tradition", as befits the host of the PGA's "prestigious Presidents Cup" in 2009; the "picturesque back" boasts an "exceptional finishing hole", and though a few gripe about about the "minimal facilities", "mediocre service" and "cold SF fog", most just "bring a sweater" and enjoy "one of the best values in California golf (even better if you're a resident)."

"Magnificent gardens" and a "delightful Japanese teahouse" overlooking a waterfall make this "small" yet "lovely" "oasis in Golden Gate Park" a perfect place to have a wedding or "soak in" that Zen feeling, especially during cherry-blossom season; with "narrow paths" winding past greenery, pagodas and koi ponds, it offers nonstop "photo ops", but be sure to take "time for tea" and snacks "served by women in traditional attire."

Located "in the heart of San Francisco", this "old army base" track is a "tight", "hilly", "beautiful" layout routed "among the cypress" and eucalyptus trees, with "no water" hazards in sight; "painfully slow rounds" and "military"-grade facilities bother some, but those who value its "historic" heritage suggest golfers "check it out"; P.S. "bundle up" for the "British Open conditions": "chilly", "windy" and "foggy."

There's "always something to spark the mind" at this SoMa museum, starting with the Mario Botta–designed building, a "fantastically lit, striped granite" "work of modern art in itself", complete with a top-floor "see-through catwalk"; a "diverse permanent collection", "outstanding traveling exhibits", an "excellent cafeteria" and a "cool gift shop" are among its other "gems"; N.B. admission is free on the first Tuesday of each month.

"There's always something interesting going on" at this "laid-back" SoMa "hipster hideout" that triple tasks as an ever-"changing" "art gallery", bar and "quirky" dance venue; despite a Minna-mum of elbow room during Qoöl (the "popular" "Wednesday evening happy hour"), "cool cat DJs" and an "eclectic" crowd make for the "perfect after-office midweek spot."

"More champagne!" cheer "self-confessed bubbles broads" and guys who "cuddle up" "on the comfy sofas" upstairs or dance in the "hot and steamy" "meat market" of the "subterranean wine cellar" at this Downtown "place to bring a date or celebrate"; there's a "fantastic selection" of sparklers, but "make reservations" for "VIP service" or you may detect "a bit of attitude" say fizzled-out surveyors.

"Minimalist, upscale" decor makes this "ultrachic lounge" the "best of the Triangle bars" swear some Cow Hollow cohorts, who hang with the "trendy fashionistas" on "low" couches or around the "freestanding fireplace"; it suits "cozy conversation while sipping a sophisticated cocktail", but some huff about the "haughty" vibe, fuming it "feels more LA than SF."

This "spacious" midpriced Mission multitasker "has it all", including a mezzanine lounge and a Med restaurant that morphs into a "dance floor after the kitchen closes", but the real "showstopper" is its "phenomenal" rooftop terrace where you can get a gander of the "gorgeous" city skyline; while it's a "total crush" on those "hot (ok, lukewarm) summer afternoons" and "service is a little on the slow side", view-masters maintain it's "totally worth the hassle" for the "unique" experience; N.B. a zoning dispute may impact the (cash-only) roof's future.

The "see-and-be-seen crowd" samples "flights and bites" at this "low-key" Marina vino venue (and its Burlingame sibling), both "sexy" spots where the "knowledgeable" servers can help you navigate the "impressive" and "witty wine list"; "comfy couches" add to the appeal, especially for a "date", even if it's "too pricey" for frugal oenophiles.

"Dress up" "if you're looking to hobnob with the rich" and "pretty people" at Downtown's "über-hip" Clift Hotel, because there's an "LA-style beauty contest" "just to get in" the door at this "luxe" lobby bar; the "posh setting" with its "giant redwood bar" and huge portraits that "seem to be checking you out" ensures you "always feel like a star", so it's "worth it" – especially "if you still have an expense account."

"Reward yourself for walking up Nob Hill" with a "360-degree" "view beyond belief" from "on top of the world" – or at least atop the Mark Hopkins Hotel; it's "not the hippest place", but the "romantic ambiance" is "reminiscent of the '40s" with "live music most nights" luring an "older crowd" to the dance floor; so "go for the sunset and stay for the city lights", but be prepared for "spotty service", "pricey" cocktails and an "overwhelming" "100-martini menu."

"A very wide slice of SF life" – including "skinny jeans-wearing" Missionites, "tattooed freaks" and "hipsters who ride fixies" – "bumps shoulders" at the "rows and rows of picnic tables" in the "awesome" "outdoor" beer garden at this "basic neighborhood biker bar"; "snag a bench while the sun is still shining" for "super-cheap" burgers and suds "by the pitcher", and just remember that "surly service" and "porta-potties are the price you pay" for the "glorious" experience.

You'll be tempted to "go overboard" at this "spendy-chic" SoMa spot, where the "fab" fare is matched by "well-crafted cocktails" and "one of the most extensive wine collections in San Francisco"; "when you win the lottery", join the "beautiful people" in the "Manhattan-feeling loft" and admire the "spectacular" three-story glass-front cellar.