"Like the Italian autostrada it's named for", this revved-up Marina enoteca is a "guaranteed traffic jam" "loaded with impossibly good-looking" ragazzi who "shout to be heard" over the "explosively noisy" bar scene; "foodies" motor over to the "chef's bar to watch the pizzaioli perform their magic", slinging "blistered thin-crust" pies, "sublime" salumi and other Neapolitan specialties, matched by a "daunting" but "dazzling" wine list that's "priced right"; N.B. a post-Survey chef change is not reflected in the Food score.
|