Like a "poor man's Spago", this Beverly Hills–bred pizza chain "mainstay" dishes up "gourmet" pies with "exotic" toppings like shrimp, pineapple and BBQ chicken (though some "work better than others") plus "tasty salads"; "iffy service", "hectic" vibes and "bright, clinical" decor can be downers, but "inexpensive" tabs keep most branches "crowded" and parents proclaim them "a godsend if you have kids."