"Even though it's changed hands", this "expensive" hotel "hideaway" near Union Square is still a bastion of "civilized dining" where the "well-prepared" Cal-Med cuisine (with Indian accents) is presented by a "pampering" staff; it's "one of the few" places to wear "your fancy duds" and "enjoy your own conversation and not the next table's", so while there's "nothing radical about the menu" or the "staid" ambiance, "that's exactly how" the "discerning clientele" likes it.