For over 20 years these "dependable" "fixtures" have been "beloved by families with small children" for "solid", "midrange" Italian "without pretension" presented in "large portions"; insiders insist the Outback-controlled branches "can't compare" to the original "family-owned" outposts (Upper Kirby District and Briargrove in Houston), though all locations remain "noisy" and "crowded."