George's California Modern in La Jolla

"By George, it's still superb!" – this incarnation of the La Jolla "classic" features chef Trey Foshee's "brilliant", "edgy", "light", "delectable Californian" cuisine, boasting "the freshest ingredients" and "elegant flavor pairings" (even before the first bite, "the dishes come alive" as the "warm" servers explain them); the "contemporary" decor (an "abundance of glass and steel") "ranks high" but will always place second to the "spectacular sunsets" "over the ocean" – and though "you pay for the privilege", it's "worth the pretty penny."