"All the classics" plus "enough inventiveness to keep you coming back" "year after year" – not to mention "an appealing wine list" – is the "tantalizing" formula at this "lovely" French "gem" with a patio, a more formal dining room and a "cozy" bistro/bar below ("cheaper than upstairs" but still "très delicious"); the staff's simultaneous "professional" and "laid-back" tone adds to an experience enthusiasts cheer is "wonderful in every way."